When you’re there in the teeny- tiny dining room, knocking back your special-occasion bubbly, popping pudgy little raw scallops dressed in pineapple and hot peppers, dragging the tines of your fork across the back of your black cod just to hear how crispy it is, you’ll understand how a small, nearly 25-year-old seafood BYOB was able to capture our hearts – and how Alex Yoon (its new chef and owner) was able to keep a good thing going.
If Dmitri’s defined simple seafood pleasures, mighty Little Fish has always captured more sophisticated culinary aims, launching over its 21 years and two locations the careers of chef-owners like Ian Moroney (Pumpkin), Michael Stollenwerk (Two Fish) and Chad Jenkins. Alex Yoon, 27, an alum of Le Bec-Fin 2.0 and Serpico, is the latest young star to bring an ocean of ambition to these 24 seats, and is turning out memorable modern plates built on sustainable seafood — with a few winks to his Korean heritage — that amounted to my best meal here yet, earning it that third bell.
Occupying a corner spot in Philly’s charming Queen Village neighborhood, this tiny closet of a BYOB hand-writes its daily-changing menu on a blackboard. Arriving on a weekday? Don’t miss the scallops. Settling in for Sunday dinner? Order the Sunday tasting menu.